If you have an automatic retractable awning you should have numerous components relating to the motor and electric installation. This is figured from about a 2 inch drop per 1 foot of projection. Look through the installation directions from the awning manufacturer and ensure that everything that should have been packaged and sent to your house actually arrived.
If you have an automatic retractable awning, the final step will be running air compressor motors Factory electric to the motor and a control switch. Take as long a straight edge as you have (the un-cut edge on a strip of 8' plywood works very well) and make sure the wall isn't bowed in or out. All this rubbish about not reading directions and real men ends here and now. Please take into account how high the end of the patio awning will be once it's installed and opened.5 inches. When attaching the hardware, don't forget to seal the small centering holes with caulk, and don't over tighten the lags! Lag screws are extremely strong, and tightening one with enough force can easily split a stud. If the outside of your house is stone or masonry, you'll need a masonry (hammer) drill with the proper bits. A real do-it-yourselfer does things right the first time, and that means knowing what you're doing.
Once you've determined the installation height, measure and snap a chalk line in accordance with the manufacturer's installation directions. If you're not familiar with doing this type of work yourself, call a professional. Once you've carefully cut the siding away you can attach the brackets and the 2-by spacers to the proper studs. When it's all said and done you'll follow the same instructions as the soft walls, except you'll be ramming or hammer drilling some type of mounting fastener into your wall.This piece covers a broad summary of installation for retractable awnings. Generally, suggested pitch (height change from front to rear) is 12 inches for a 6 foot awning and up to 42 inches for a 17 foot awning.
Now, read the installation directions from front to back, so that you comprehend and are comfortable explaining to someone else what each fastener and each piece of hardware is used for. There will generally be some sort of retainer pins or bolts used to hold the awning assembly to the hardware. Once you've found the centers of all studs you need to mount hardware to, drill pilots 1/8 inch smaller than the diameter of the lag screws you'll be using to mount the brackets. Lay everything out and audit what you have versus what the instructions say you should have. Take a few snapshots and bring them along so they can see what you're dealing with. You'll most likely want to find a cordless drill, sockets, screwdrivers, a stud finder (if mounting to studed substructure), a level, and a chalk line or laser line if you have one.
If you're installing the retractable awning on a soft, uneven surface such as siding, you must cut spacer blocks out of treated lumber that will set the brackets further out from the siding material. Once you're familiar with the basic steps that you need to follow, collect your tools. Attach any accessories or vertical support members as recommended in the manufacturer's directions. This will ensure that the brackets are flush to the attaching support structure. If it is, you'll need to either shim the end or center hardware to make sure everything is lined up.
Once all brackets are installed, call a buddy or three and raise the awning into position. You should have an assortment of brackets, fasteners, and bolts. If you only have 7 feet of room under your eaves you probably won't want a 17 foot awning that falls down to 3 feet at the outside boundary. Fastener type and size differs greatly with different material, blocks, or reinforced concrete construction. To put it another way, cut two-by lumber to the measurements of the base of your hardware, center them on the studs where they will be attached, mark around them, and cut the siding material away. Each manufacturer will have their own brackets, hardware, and directions for installing their awnings, so be certain you read and follow their instructions. This is due to the need to move rainwater off the larger awning quickly, as quite a bit of weight can build up in a short period of time. On the larger end it comes closer to 2.
As I just stated, the initial step to any task of this size is to read the directions and lay out all the individual components. It is not customized for one brand or manufacturer, and is meant to provide you with an idea of what you'll be up against should you decide to tackle installation on your own. This will be governed by the distance that your awning sticks out from your home and the angle at which you want it to grade away.
Determine the mounting height of your awning.
In the event that you have a stone wall, go down to your local home improvement store and talk to someone well-informed in the area of concrete fasteners.
If you're mounting the hardware to studs, use your stud finder to locate them, and then locate the sides with a series of 1/8" or smaller drill holes, preferably in an area that will be concealed by the brackets. Make sure it's attached firmly before letting it rest on it's own supports.
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